I Grew Up Between Two Worlds in Istanbul. I Found God Hidden Beneath the Surface Like an Ancient…
I grew up in a country that was torn in half. Not by a wall or a border or a river.
By an idea, the idea that you could be both modern and Muslim, both Western and Eastern, both secular and sacred, that you could drink Raiki on Friday night and pray at the mosque on Friday afternoon.
That you could wear a minikrt and a headscarf in the same neighborhood, on the same street, sometimes in the same family.
That country is Turkey and the tear that runs through it runs through me too.
I am the daughter of a secular father and a devout mother. I grew up in a house where one parent watched European football and the other watched Quran recitation on television.

Where one parent dreamed of Anara’s modernity and the other dreamed of Mecca’s holiness. Where the dinner table was a silent battlefield between two turkeys that could not agree on what Turkey was supposed to be.
And I was caught in the middle. Always in the middle. Too religious for my father’s world, too modern for my mother’s world, too questioning for both.
My name is Alif. I am 31 years old. I am from Istanbul, the city that literally sits between two continents.
One foot in Europe, one foot in Asia. And I found Jesus in the space between those two feet.
In the gap, in the crack, in the place where neither world could reach, but where something else, something older and deeper and truer than either world was waiting.
This is a story about a woman caught between two identities who found a third one.
An identity that did not ask her to choose sides. An identity that said, “You are not half of anything.
You are whole and you are mine.” Let me tell you about Istanbul because there is no city on earth quite like it.
Istanbul is ancient. 2,600 years of continuous habitation. The capital of three empires, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman.
A city that has been Christian and Muslim that has housed the Hagya Sophia as both a cathedral and a mosque that carries the DNA of both civilizations in its stones and its streets and its skyline.
When you stand on the Galata Bridge at sunset, looking south toward the old city, you see the domes and minoretses of the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia silhouetted against an orange sky.
The sea of Marmura glitters. The call to prayer floats across the water from a dozen mosques simultaneously.
A haunting overlapping chorus that turns the air itself into worship. It is one of the most beautiful sights and sounds on earth.
Even if you are not Muslim, even if you are not religious at all, that moment will make you believe in something.
I grew up in Kadikcoy on the Asian side of Istanbul. Kadakoy is the hip progressive artistic side.
The side where you find bookshops and vinyl record stores and cafes where young people argue about politics over Turkish coffee.
It is secular Istanbul, the Istanbul of Adaturk’s revolution, the Istanbul that looks toward Europe and modernity and freedom.
But my mother’s family was from Ka in central Anatolia. Ka is the heartland [clears throat] of conservative Islam in Turkey.
It is the city of Roomie, the great Sufi poet and the home of the whirling dervishes.
My mother’s family were devout Sunni Muslims. Not extreme, not radical, but deep. Their faith was woven into the fabric of daily life.
They prayed, they fasted, they covered their heads. They trusted in Allah with a simplicity and sincerity that I always admired even when I did not share it.
My father, Kimal, was a journalist, a secular Kamalist intellectual who believed that Adaturk’s vision of a modern secular Turkey was the greatest achievement in the nation’s history.
He smoked. He drank. He argued passionately about politics. He believed in science, reason, democracy, and the separation of religion and state.
He respected Islam as a cultural tradition, but did not practice it. He called himself a cultural Muslim, Muslim by heritage, secular by choice.
My mother, Sevki, was his opposite. She was a homemaker from a religious family. She wore a headscarf.
She prayed five times a day. She listened to Quran recitation while she cooked.
She had married my father in a love match that shocked both families, the secularist and the devout.
And the tension of that mismatch defined our household. They loved each other. I want to be clear about that.
Despite their differences, despite the arguments, despite the fundamental disagreement about what God wanted and what turkey should be, they loved each other.
But love does not eliminate tension. Sometimes it just gives tension a home. I [clears throat] have one brother, K, two years younger than me.
K took after our father, secular, irreverent, interested in music and art and girls, uninterested in religion.
He grew his hair long, wore band t-shirts, and declared himself an atheist at 16, which made our mother cry and our father secretly proud.
I was different from both of them. I was the observer, the one who watched the tugof warar between my parents’ worlds and tried to understand both sides.
I went to the mosque with my mother and felt the power of the rituals.
I read the philosophy books on my father’s shelves and felt the power of the questions.
I was drawn to the sacred and the secular simultaneously and I could not figure out how to be both.
This is the Turkish condition. The entire nation lives in this tension and I was a walking breathing embodiment of it.
From a young age I was a seeker. I do not mean a religious seeker.
I mean a truth seeker. I wanted to understand reality, not just the surface, the depths, what is true, what is real, what is the meaning of this strange, brief, beautiful, terrible experience of being alive.
My mother gave me one answer. Allah, God is real. The Quran is true. Follow the path and you will find peace.
She said this with such conviction that I wanted to believe her. I tried to believe her.
I memorized Quran. I prayed. I wore a headscarf when I visited her family in Ka.
I participated in Ramadan with something approaching enthusiasm. But the peace she promised never fully arrived.
I prayed and felt nothing. I fasted and felt hungry. I read the Quran and felt the beauty of the Arabic but not the presence of God behind it.
It was like reading the menu at a restaurant and never being served the meal.
The description was beautiful, but I was still hungry. My father gave me a different answer.
Reason. Truth is found through logic, evidence, critical thinking. Religion is mythology dressed in costume.
God is a hypothesis that science is slowly disproving. He said this with equal conviction and I wanted to believe him too.
I read Darwin. I read Nietze. I read the Turkish secularist philosophers. I tried on atheism like a coat, seeing if it fit.
It did not fit because atheism answered the what questions beautifully. What is the universe?
What are we made of? What are the mechanisms of life? But it left the why questions completely unanswered.
Why is there something instead of nothing? Why do we feel beauty? Why does love hurt?
Why does a sunset make me cry? Why does music make me feel like I am touching something beyond myself?
My father dismissed these questions as emotional thinking. He said, “The universe does not owe you a why, a leaf.
It just is.” But that answer was not enough for me because I was not just a mind looking for data.
I was a soul looking for home. And it just is was not a home.
It was a parking lot. So I kept seeking. Through my teenage years, through university, I studied art history at Istanbul University.
Through my early 20s, I read voraciously, Sufism, Buddhism, Hinduism, existentialism, mysticism. I read Roomie, who was practically a hometown hero in my mother’s family.
I read Hai and Gebran and Thichchnat Han. I was a spiritual wanderer, sampling from every tradition, looking for the taste that matched the hunger.
Nothing fully satisfied. Everything had pieces of truth, beautiful, luminous pieces, but no single tradition had the whole picture.
Or so I thought. I want to tell you about a moment that changed the direction of my seeking.
It happened in the most Turkish place imaginable, the Hagia Sophia. I was 25. I was going through a difficult period, a breakup, job stress, the general existential crisis that seems to be mandatory for Turkish intellectuals in their 20s.
I was walking through Sultanameit, the old city district on a gray November afternoon, and I decided on impulse to go inside the Hagya Sophia.
At that time, the Hagya Sophia had been recently reconverted into a mosque after decades as a museum.
This was politically controversial. Secularists saw it as a step backward. Religious conservatives saw it as a restoration of Islamic heritage.
I had complicated feelings about it as I had complicated feelings about everything. I walked inside and I stopped breathing.
The Hagya Sophia is vast. The central dome rises 55 m above the floor and when you stand beneath it and look up, you feel like you are looking into infinity.
The space is simultaneously massive and intimate. The walls are covered with Islamic calligraphy. Golden letters spelling out the names of Allah, Muhammad, and the Califfs.
But beneath the calligraphy, barely visible, ghostly, are the remnants of Byzantine Christian mosaics, faces of Christ, the Virgin Mary, angels with golden wings.
They have been plastered over, painted over, covered up, but they are still there, faint, persistent, refusing to disappear.
I stood beneath the dome and I looked up at the calligraphy and the hidden mosaics and I felt something break open inside me because the Hagia Sophia was me.
I was the building that had been built for one purpose and converted to another with the original still showing through the plaster.
I was the place where two faiths overlapped, where one was visible and the other was hidden.
Where the surface said one thing and the depths whispered another. And in that moment, standing in the intersection of Christianity and Islam, in a building that had been both church and mosque, in a city that sat between two continents, I felt a pull.
Not toward Islam, which I was already nominally part of, not toward atheism, which I had already tried and found wanting, toward something else, toward the hidden mosaics, toward the faces beneath the plaster, toward Christ.
It was not a conversion. >> >> It was an invitation, a whisper that said, “Come look closer.
I have been here all along.” I left the Haga Sophia that afternoon with tears on my face and a question in my heart that would not go away.
What if the truth I have been looking for is the one that has been plastered over?
Over the following weeks, I returned to the Haga Sophia three more times. Each visit, I stood in a different spot.
I looked at different walls. I searched for the hidden mosaics, the ones that peaked through the cracks in the plaster, the ones that the restoration teams had carefully uncovered, the ones that the Islamic authorities had debated whether to reveal or cover again.
There was one mosaic in particular that arrested me. It was in the upper gallery, the Deisis mosaic, dating from the 13th century.
It depicts Christ in the center with the Virgin Mary on one side and John the Baptist on the other.
The mosaic is damaged. Large sections are missing, but the face of Christ is mostly intact, and that face is extraordinary.
It is gentle and strong at the same time. The eyes look directly at you with an expression that is simultaneously compassionate and penetrating, as if they see everything, every secret, every fear, every hope, and love everything they see.
I stood before that mosaic for 20 minutes, unable to move. I was not a Christian yet.
I did not understand the theology. I did not know the creeds. But I knew with a certainty that bypassed my intellect and spoke directly to my soul that the face looking back at me was not just art.
It was an encounter. Someone was looking at me through 13 centuries of Bzantine gold and stone and that someone was alive.
I left the Haga Sophia that third time and walked along the Bosphorus and the water was gray and choppy and the seagulls were screaming and the fishermen on the Galata Bridge were casting their lines into the deep and I thought, I am being fished.
Something is casting a line into the deep of me and I am being drawn up out of the dark water into the light and I cannot resist.
I do not want to resist. After the Hagia Sophia, I began reading about Christianity, but not the way I had read about Buddhism or Sufism.
Casually, intellectually, sampling ideas like appetizers. This was different. This felt urgent, personal, like I was not reading about a religion, but listening to a voice that was calling my name.
I found a Turkish language Bible online. >> >> Turkey has a small but active Christian community, Armenian, Greek, Syriak, and a growing number of Turkish converts, and there are Turkish translations of the Bible available.
I downloaded one and started reading. I began with the Gospels, and from the first pages, I was captivated.
The person of Jesus was unlike anything I had encountered in my years of spiritual wandering.
He was not a philosopher constructing a system. He was not a mystic offering a technique.
He was not a lawgiver handing down rules. He was a person, a living, breathing, walking, eating, sleeping, laughing, weeping, angry, tender, fierce, gentle person.
And everything he said and did was saturated with a quality that I can only call authority.
Not the authority of power, the authority of truth, the kind of authority that does not demand your obedience, but compels your attention.
He told a story about a woman who lost a coin and searched her entire house until she found it and then threw a party to celebrate.
And the story was about God. God searching for one lost soul with the same intensity that a poor woman searches for a lost coin.
God on his hands and knees sweeping the dark corners because every soul matters.
Every single one. I read that parable and I thought about my years of seeking.
All those books, all those traditions, all those midnight conversations about the meaning of life.
And I realized that the entire time I had been seeking God, God had been seeking me.
I was the lost coin. And God was the woman on her hands and knees, sweeping, searching, refusing to rest until she found me.
I read the sermon on the mount, and I was stunned. Not by its moral teachings.
Those were beautiful, but not entirely unique. Many traditions teach kindness, humility, forgiveness. What stunned me was the speaker.
The person delivering these teachings was not saying, “Here, here is what God wants.” He was saying, “Here is what I want.”
He was not pointing to God from a distance. He was speaking as God, with God’s voice, from God’s heart.
You have heard it said, “An eye for an eye and a tooth for a tooth.”
But I tell you, do not resist an evil person. If anyone slaps you on the right cheek, turn to them the other cheek also.
This was not philosophy. This was revolution, a complete overturning of every human instinct. The instinct for revenge, for justice, for self-p protection.
And it was spoken by a man who would later demonstrate it by allowing himself to be beaten, mocked, and killed without fighting back.
He did not just preach turning the other cheek. He turned the other cheek. He lived his own sermon.
He bled his own message. I read about the crucifixion and here is where the hidden mosaics came to life.
In Islam, the crucifixion of Jesus is denied. The Quran says that Jesus was not crucified.
It only appeared so. Someone else was put on the cross in his place and God raised Jesus to heaven.
[clears throat] This is one of the key points of theological disagreement between Christianity and Islam.
But as I read the gospel accounts, the agony in Gethsemane, the betrayal by Judas, the trial before Pilate, the crown of thorns, the nails, the cross, the darkness, the cry, the death.
I knew with a certainty that went deeper than argument that this happened. This was not a trick.
This was not an illusion. This was real. God on a cross, God bleeding, God dying for me.
The Islamic explanation that God made it appear that Jesus was crucified when he really was not, suddenly seemed inadequate, not just historically, but theologically.
Why would God deceive everyone? Why would God create an elaborate illusion that would lead billions of people astray for 2,000 years?
The Islamic answer to the crucifixion created more problems than it solved. But the Christian answer that God loved the world so much that he entered it, lived in it, suffered in it, and died in it, taking the weight of human sin and brokenness upon himself.
That answer was devastating in its beauty. It was the most radical, most counterintuitive, most heartshattering claim I had ever encountered, and it made everything else I had read, all the philosophy, all the mysticism, all the spiritual seeking feel like footsteps leading to a door.
Let me tell you how I found the church. Because in Turkey, churches exist. But finding the right one, especially if you are a Turkish Muslim exploring Christianity, is not straightforward.
Turkey is officially secular. Unlike Saudi Arabia or Malaysia, there is no legal penalty for apostasy.
You will not be arrested for leaving Islam, but social consequences are severe. Turkey has become increasingly religious in recent decades under its current political direction.
Islamism has grown. Nationalism and Islam have fused into a powerful cultural force. And in this atmosphere, a Turkish person converting to Christianity is seen as a betrayal, not just of faith, but of national identity.
Because in the popular imagination, to be Turkish is to be Muslim. Christianity is associated with Armenians, Greeks, Westerners, the historical, others.
A Turkish Christian is in many people’s minds a traitor. Despite all this, there are Turkish Protestant churches, small, discreet, mostly in the larger cities.
Istanbul has several. They worship in Turkish. They are led by Turkish pastors. Their congregations include Turkish converts, some foreigners, and the occasional curious seeker like me.
I found one in Beaoglu, the cosmopolitan district on the European side of Istanbul, known for its art galleries, its nightife, and its tolerance of the unconventional.
The church met in a rented space on the upper floor of a commercial building, accessible through an unmarked door and a narrow staircase.
It was not hidden exactly, but it was not advertised either. You had to know it was there.
I went on a Sunday morning alone, terrified. I climbed the stairs, pushed open the door, and entered a room with about 40 people sitting in folding chairs.
Turkish worship music was playing, familiar melodies with Turkish lyrics about Jesus. A young woman was singing.
Her voice was beautiful and free and unashamed. And the words she was singing were in my language, my Turkish, the language of my childhood and my dreams and my deepest thoughts.
I sat in the back and I listened. And something happened that I had been waiting for my entire life.
I felt God, not the abstract God of philosophy, not the distant God of Islamic ritual, not the absent God of my father’s secularism, a present God, a God who was in the room, a God who knew I was there, who had been expecting me, who had led me through years of seeking and questioning and wandering to this exact chair in this exact room on this exact Sunday morning.
I felt him the way you feel the sun on your face. Not because you can see it directly, but because you can feel its warmth.
God was warm. God was close. God was here. I wept quietly in the back row while 40 strangers worshiped in Turkish, and the city of Istanbul hummed outside the window.
I wept because the seeking was over. I had found what I was looking for, or rather, it had found me.
The lost coin had been found. The woman could stop sweeping. The party could begin.
After the service, a woman approached me. She was in her 40s, Turkish, with kind eyes and a warm smile.
She said, “Welcome. Is this your first time?” I said, “Yes.” She said, “I could tell you were crying.”
I said, “I am sorry.” She said, “Do not apologize. Tears are the language of the soul, and your soul has been speaking all morning.”
Her name was Denise. She became my spiritual mother, my mentor, my guide through the first trembling months of my new faith.
She had been a Muslim, a devout one like my mother, and had converted to Christianity 15 years earlier.
She understood my world from the inside. She understood the torn identity, the family complications, the cultural minefield.
Denise taught me to pray, not the Islamic salat. I already knew that. She taught me to pray the way Jesus taught his disciples conversationally, honestly, without formulas.
Just talk to him, she said. Tell him what you are feeling. Ask him what you need.
Thank him for what you have. He is not a distant king on a throne.
He is your father. Talk to him like a father. I learned slowly, clumsily.
My prayers in those early days were stumbling, incoherent, full of starts and stops, but they were real.
And the more I prayed, the more I felt the presence respond. Not in words, in warmth, in peace, in the gradual dissolving of the anxiety and the emptiness that had been my constant companions for a decade.
I want to pause and speak to anyone watching who is a seeker. Not a Muslim necessarily, not a Christian, just a seeker, someone who has been reading and searching and sampling and questioning for years, trying to find the thing that matches the hunger.
I want you to know that the seeking is not wasted. Every book you read, every tradition you explored, every question you asked, it was all leading somewhere.
It was all part of the path. And the path has an end, not a dead end, a destination, a person, a presence, a home.
If you are tired of seeking, if you want to find, keep watching. And if this story is resonating, subscribe to this channel because every testimony here is a signpost on the path and you are closer than you think.
I attended the church in Boglu for about 8 months before I told my family.
8 months of growing, learning, deepening, 8 months of discovering who Jesus was and who I was in relation to him.
8 months of building a foundation strong enough to withstand what was coming. I told my mother first.
We were sitting in her kitchen in Kadakcoy. The kitchen where I had grown up, where the smell of Turkish tea and simmit and my mother’s boric permeated every surface.
She was pouring K into the tulip-shaped glasses that are standard in every Turkish household.
I said, Anne, I need to tell you something important. She set the teapot down and looked at me.
What is it, Kaneimm? My dear, I said, I have been attending a church, a Christian church, and I believe in Jesus Christ.
I believe he is the son of God. The silence that followed lasted exactly as long as it took for my mother to process the three worst words a Turkish Muslim mother can hear from her daughter.
I believe in Jesus. Her face went through a sequence of emotions that I can still see when I close my eyes.
Confusion, disbelief, pain, fear, and then, and this surprised me, a kind of resignation as if somewhere deep inside she had always known this was possible.
As if the daughter who was always seeking, always questioning, always caught between two worlds had finally landed and it was on the side she had feared.
She said very quietly, “Is this because of your father? Did he turn you against Islam?”
I said, “No, Anne. Baba has nothing to do with this. This is my own journey, my own search.
I have been looking for God my whole life and I found him, but I did not find him where I expected.”
She started crying. Soft, quiet Turkish mother tears. The kind that are not dramatic but are devastating in their restraint.
She said, “I prayed for you every day, Alif. Every single day I asked Allah to keep you on the straight path and you walked off it.
I reached across the table and took her hand. Anne, I did not walk off the path.
I found a different path and it leads to the same God. The God who loves us.
The God who hears our prayers. He just looks different than we were told. She pulled her hand away, not violently, gently, like she needed the space.
She said, “I need time. I cannot process this right now. Please go.” I left.
I walked through the streets of Katakoy in a days, past the fish market and the bookshops and the cafes where I had spent my youth.
And I felt the fracture widening, the tear that had always run through Turkey, through my family, through me.
It had just gotten wider. My father’s reaction was different. When I told him a few days later in his study, surrounded by books and newspapers, he was almost amused.
Almost. He said, “So you have traded one mythology for another.” I said, “Baba, this is not mythology to me.
This is the most real thing I have ever experienced.” He raised an eyebrow. You sound like your mother.
She says the same thing about Islam. Maybe she is right that God is real.
She just does not know his full story. My father sighed. He was a man who had spent his life fighting against religious influence in Turkish public life.
The idea that his daughter, his intellectual questioning art history studying daughter, had become religious was to him a defeat not of me but of reason of the enlightenment of Adaturk’s vision.
He said, “Alif, I do not agree with this. I think you are making a mistake but you are an adult and I have always taught you to think for yourself.
I cannot now punish you for doing exactly that. It was not approval. It was not acceptance but it was respect.
My father respected my right to be wrong as he saw it. And in a country where many fathers would have responded with rage or punishment that respect was a gift.
Can my brother found out through the family grapevine. He called me and said, “So you are a Christian now?
Cool. Do they have good music?” That was his entire response. Can lived in his own world, a world of indie music and art and deliberate detachment from anything serious.
And my religious conversion was to him just another interesting thing happening to his interesting sister.
The community was harder. Word spread as it does in Turkish neighborhoods. Elif Yilmaz has become a Christian.
The reactions ranged from curiosity to confusion to contempt. My mother’s relatives and Kanye were horrified.
Her sister called and said, “How could you let this happen?” As if my conversion were my mother’s failure, not my choice.
My mother’s friends at the mosque whispered and looked at her with pity. She bore it with dignity, but I could see the weight of the social judgment pressing down on her.
There was one incident that was particularly painful. About 3 months after I told my family.
I ran into a former classmate from university at a cafe in Katakoy. She was with a group of friends and when she saw me, she waved me over.
We chatted for a few minutes. The usual pleasantries, the usual updates, then she said, lowering her voice, “Aliff, I heard something.
Is it true that you have become a Christian?” The way she said the word Christian like it was a disease she did not want to catch.
I said yes. She looked at me with an expression. I will never forget a mixture of fascination and revulsion as if I had confessed to something shameful.
She said, “But why? Islam is so beautiful. Turkish culture is so rich. Why would you abandon all of that for that?”
I said, “I did not abandon anything. I found something and it is the most beautiful thing I have ever found.”
She shook her head and changed the subject. We have not spoken since. That encounter taught me something important.
In Turkey, leaving Islam is not primarily seen as a religious issue. It is seen as a cultural betrayal.
Islam and Turkish identity are so intertwined, especially in the current political climate, that rejecting Islam is perceived as rejecting Turkey.
Being called a Christian in certain Turkish circles carries the same weight as being called a traitor.
It is not about theology. It is about belonging. But here is what I have learned.
Belonging to Jesus does not mean unbelonging to Turkey. I am Turkish. I will always be Turkish.
I love Turkish tea and Turkish music and Turkish humor and Turkish stubbornness. I love the Bosphorus and the bizaars and the sound of the ezon at sunset.
I love this complicated, infuriating, magnificent country. And my love for it has actually deepened since I became a Christian because now I see it through the eyes of a God who loves it infinitely more than I do.
I was not disowned. Turkish families, in my experience, are more pragmatic than families in some other Muslim cultures.
The bonds of family tend to be stronger than the bonds of religion, especially in the more educated urban segments of society.
My family did not throw me out. They did not threaten me. They did not report me to any authority.
They just absorbed it painfully, awkwardly, with lots of silence and avoidance. But they absorbed it.
Over the next two years, my faith deepened in ways I did not anticipate. The first thing that changed was my relationship with fear.
For my entire life, I had been afraid. Not of anything specific, just a general ambient anxiety that colored everything.
Fear of not being enough. Fear of disappointing people. Fear of making the wrong choice.
Fear of God’s judgment. The fear was like a background humili until it suddenly got louder.
After my conversion, the fear began to dissolve. Not all at once, gradually, like ice melting in spring.
Each day, a little more fear dissolved and a little more peace took its place.
I would wake up in the morning and instead of the familiar tightness in my chest, the tightness of a person bracing for whatever the day might bring.
I would feel openness, spaciousness, as if the room inside me had gotten bigger. The Apostle John wrote, “There is no fear in love.
Perfect love drives out fear. I experienced this not as a theological statement but as a physical reality.
The love of Jesus, the steady, constant, unconditional love that I was learning to receive was literally pushing the fear out of my body.
Like light entering a dark room. The darkness does not fight the light. It simply leaves.
The second thing that changed was my relationship with other people. I became kinder.
Not performatively kind. The kind of kindness that is really people pleasing in disguise. Genuinely kind.
I noticed people I had previously overlooked. The cleaning lady at my office. The elderly man selling simmit on the corner.
The Syrian refugee children playing in the park near my apartment. I saw them differently now.
Not as background characters in my life. As beloved children of God. Each one known.
Each one valued. Each one carrying a story as complex and beautiful and painful as my own.
I started small acts of service that I had never done before. Buying tea for the simmit seller.
Learning the names of the refugee children. Bringing food to an elderly neighbor who lived alone.
These were not grand gestures. They were small, quiet, almost invisible acts of love.
But they transformed my daily experience from self-focused to other focused. And in that transformation, I found a joy that self-focus had never been able to produce.
I was baptized in the church in Baoglu. >> >> Denise was there. About 30 members of the congregation were there.
The pastor, a Turkish man named Murah, who had himself converted from Islam 20 years earlier, baptized me in a small portable pool that they set up in the worship space.
As I went under the water and came back up, the congregation sang a Turkish hymn.
And I felt like I was being born. Not metaphorically, actually born. Like the old elith, the seeker, the wanderer, the woman caught between two worlds, had gone under, and a new Elf, rooted, found, whole, had come up.
After the baptism, Denise hugged me and whispered, “Welcome to the family, Kazim, my daughter.”
I had lost the approval of my mother’s religious community. I had gained a spiritual mother who called me daughter.
The exchange was painful, but it was not a loss. It was a transformation. I threw myself into learning.
I studied the Bible with an intensity that surprised even me. I attended Bible studies, theology discussions, prayer groups.
I read the church fathers, the early Christian theologians, many of whom had lived and written in the very land that was now Turkey.
Capidoshia, Ephesus, Antioch, Constantinople, the birthplaces of Christian theology were Turkish geography. I was not importing a foreign religion.
I was rediscovering a faith that had deep roots in my own soil. This realization was profound.
Christianity was not western. It was not foreign. It was born in the Middle East.
It flourished in Anatolia. It shaped the very land I stood on. The Haga Sophia was built as a Christian cathedral a thousand years before it became a mosque.
The seven churches of revelation, Ephesus, Smeirna, Pergamum, Thotira, Sardis, Philadelphia, Leodysa, were all in what is now Turkey.
Paul traveled through Turkey. The Council of Nika was held in Turkey. The Nyine Creed, the foundational statement of Christian belief, was written in Turkey.
I was not betraying my heritage. I was returning to it, to the oldest, deepest layer of it.
The layer beneath the Ottoman plaster, the layer of the hidden mosaics. My art changed, too.
I had always painted. It was my passion, my outlet, my way of processing the world.
Before my conversion, my art was dark, abstract, full of tension and ambiguity. After my conversion, something shifted.
Color flooded in. Light entered the compositions. The tension did not disappear. I was still a woman navigating a complicated reality, but it was held within a framework of hope.
My paintings became windows instead of walls. They let light in instead of keeping it out.
I had a small exhibition at a gallery in Boglu. The theme was hidden mosaics, paintings that explored the layers of identity, the tension between surface and depth, the things that persist beneath the plaster.
I did not explicitly label the work as Christian, but anyone who knew my story could see it.
The mosaics were Christ figures. The plaster was everything the world had covered them with, and the cracks in the plaster were where the light came through.
The exhibition attracted attention. A journalist wrote a piece about it, mentioning my background as a Turkish Muslim who had become interested in Bzantine Christian art.
She did not say I had converted. I did not tell her. But the implication was there, and the reaction was mixed.
Some people praised the work. Some people called it cultural treason. One anonymous commenter on the article wrote, “Another Turk seduced by the crusaders.
I read that comment and I smiled because the crusaders had nothing to do with it.
Jesus had everything to do with it. And Jesus was not a crusader. He was a carpenter from Nazareth who loved his enemies and died for them.”
The opposite of a crusader. I want to pause here because this part of my story, the art, the exhibition, the hidden mosaics is very close to my heart.
Art has been my way of processing my faith, my identity, my place in the world.
And I believe that creativity is one of the purest forms of worship. When we create beauty, we are reflecting the God who created beauty.
When we make art, we are speaking in the language that God speaks most fluently.
If you are an artist, a painter, a writer, a musician, a designer, anyone who creates and you are searching for the source of your creativity, I want you to know that the source has a name and his name is the one who said, “Let there be light.”
The original artist, the first creator, and he wants to collaborate with you. If this resonates, leave a comment.
Tell me about your art, your creativity, your search for beauty, and share this video with the artists in your life.
I want to spend some time talking about my mother because the relationship between us is the most important human relationship in my life and it has been the most affected by my conversion.
My mother is a good woman. I say that without qualification. She is kind, generous, devoted and deeply sincere in her faith.
She prays for me every day. She believes that I have been led astray and her grief about my conversion is real and ongoing.
She has not stopped loving me. That is the miracle of Turkish mothers. They do not stop loving.
But her love is now mixed with sorrow. And the sorrow colors everything. For the first year after my disclosure, our relationship was strained.
Our weekly phone calls became bi-weekly. Our conversations became shorter. The topics became safer.
Weather, food, Ken’s latest adventures. We circled around the elephant in the room with the practiced grace of two people who love each other too much to fight but disagree too deeply to relax.
>> >> Then something shifted. About 18 months after I told her, my mother called me on a Tuesday evening.
Her voice was different, softer, more tentative. She said, “Elif, can I ask you something?”
I said, “Of course, Anne.” She said, “What does Jesus mean to you? Not what does Christianity teach.”
“What does Jesus mean to you personally?” I was stunned. My mother had never asked me a sincere question about my faith.
She had criticized it. She had mourned it. She had prayed against it, but she had never asked about it.
I took a breath and I told her. I told her about the seeking, about the emptiness that prayers and fasting could not fill.
About the Hagia Sophia, about the hidden mosaics, about the God who was not distant but close.
About the shepherd who leaves 99 sheep to find the one that is lost. About the love that does not keep score.
About the cross, God entering human suffering, not observing it from above. I talked for 20 minutes.
She listened without interrupting. When I finished, there was a long silence. Then she said, “The way you talk about him, it sounds like how I feel about Allah.
The love, the closeness, the peace.” I said, “Maybe that is because it is the same God, Anne.
The same God known in different ways.” She was quiet for a long time.
Then she said, “I do not know, Alif. I do not know if I can accept that.
But I heard you and I will think about what you said. It was not a conversion.
It was not agreement. But it was an opening, a crack in the plaster.
And I have learned to be patient with cracks. They grow on their own schedule, not on mine.
Since that conversation, my relationship with my mother has improved steadily. We talk every week again.
We have even cautiously and carefully begun to discuss faith, not to debate, to share.
She tells me about a verse in the Quran that moved her. And I tell her about a passage in the Bible that moved me.
We listen to each other. We do not agree, but we listen. And listening, I have learned, is the beginning of everything.
My mother visited me in Istanbul last Ramadan. She fasted. I did not. She prayed at the mosque.
I prayed at home to Jesus. We cooked together. We drank tea. We walked along the Bosphorus in the evening, watching the lights of the Asian side reflected in the water.
>> >> and she held my arm the way Turkish mothers do, possessively, tenderly, as if she were afraid I might float away.
At one point she said, “I still pray for you to come back to Islam alif.”
I said, “I know, Anne, and I pray for you to meet Jesus.” She laughed, an actual laugh.
“We are praying against each other,” she said. I said, “No, we are both praying for the same thing.
We are praying for truth, and truth is not afraid of prayers.” She squeezed my arm and said nothing, but she did not let go.
I am 31 years old. I live in Istanbul. I never left. This is my city, the city of the hidden mosaics, the city that sits between two worlds.
I did not have to leave to be free because Turkish law does not criminalize apostasy.
My freedom is social, not legal. And I have chosen to exercise it here in the place where my faith was born.
I work as an artist and art teacher. I teach at a small private studio in Boglu and I exhibit my work in galleries around Istanbul and occasionally internationally.
My art continues to explore the themes of hidden identity, layered truth and the beauty that persists beneath surfaces.
I have found that art is a powerful form of testimony. It reaches people who would never enter a church, who would never read a Bible, who would never listen to a sermon, but they will look at a painting.
And if the painting carries truth, the truth will do its own work. I am part of the church in Beaoglu, which has grown from 40 to about 70 members in the years I have been attending.
The growth is slow but steady. Most new members are Turkish converts from Islam. Young, educated, urban, seeking.
They come for the same reasons I came. A hunger that Islam did not fill.
A curiosity that led them to the Bible. An encounter with Jesus that changed everything.
I am single. I want to be honest about that. Being a single Turkish Christian woman is not easy.
The dating pool is extremely small. Turkish Muslim men will not date a Christian woman.
Turkish Christian men are rare. And the cultural expectations around marriage in Turkey, even in progressive Istanbul, are intense.
My mother asks about grandchildren. Every time we talk, I tell her I am trusting God’s timing.
She sigh heavily, which is the Turkish mother equivalent of a theological rebuttal. But I have made peace with my singleness.
Not the resigned bitter peace of someone who has given up. The active chosen peace of someone who has decided that her worth is not determined by her relationship status.
In Turkish culture and in many cultures, an unmarried woman in her 30s is viewed with a mixture of pity and suspicion.
Something must be wrong with her. She must be too demanding, too independent, too something.
But Jesus was single. Paul was single. Many of the greatest saints and servants in Christian history were single.
Singleness is not a deficiency. It is a vocation. And my vocation right now is to pour everything I have into the work God has given me.
The art, the teaching, the community, the writing, the serving. And honestly, I am not lonely.
I have a church family that fills my life with warmth and connection and belonging.
I have Denny’s who calls me her daughter. I have the women in my small group who know me more deeply than anyone outside my biological family.
I have the refugees I serve who teach me more about faith and resilience than any book ever could.
I have a rich, full, overflowing life. And if God brings a partner into that life someday, wonderful.
If he does not, that is wonderful, too. Because the love I was looking for, the love that matches the hunger, I already found it.
His name is Jesus, and he is enough. But singleness has given me something valuable.
Freedom to invest fully in my calling, my art, my teaching, my community, my writing.
I have started a blog in Turkish and English sharing reflections on faith, art, identity, and the Turkish Christian experience.
The blog has attracted a small but growing readership, including a number of Turkish Muslims who are curious, questioning, seeking.
I correspond with many of them. I do not procilitize. I just share my story and let it do what stories do.
I also volunteer with a refugee ministry through the church. Istanbul is home to hundreds of thousands of refugees, Syrians, Afghans, Iraqis, many of them Muslim, many of them traumatized, all of them in need.
We provide practical assistance, food, clothing, language classes, legal support without conditions and without agenda.
We serve because Jesus served. We love because Jesus loved. And sometimes in the process of serving, conversations happen, questions are asked, stories are shared, seeds are planted, the work is slow, the results are rarely visible.
But I have learned that faithfulness is not measured in outcomes. It is measured in obedience.
God has placed me in Istanbul, in the city of hidden mosaics. And he has asked me to be a mosaic myself, a small piece of beauty in a larger picture that only he can see.
I want to close with a message to three groups of people. To the Turks, my people, my beautiful, complicated, wonderful people, I want you to know that Christianity is not a foreign invasion.
It is not a western import. It is not a crusader conspiracy. Christianity was here before Islam.
It was born in our soil, shaped by our thinkers, expressed in our languages. The Hagia Sophia was a cathedral before it was a mosque.
Antioch was a Christian city before it was a Muslim one. Paul walked our roads.
John wrote to our churches, “The faith I follow is as Turkish as the land itself.
I am not asking you to agree with me. I am asking you to consider the possibility that there are mosaics hidden beneath the plaster of your assumptions.
Mosaics that are beautiful and ancient and true and that looking at them will not destroy you, it will complete you.
To the seekers, the people who are searching, who are caught between worlds, who feel like they do not belong anywhere, I want you to know that the gap between worlds is not an empty space.
It is a meeting place. It is where God waits. The God who is not east or west, not secular or sacred, not modern or traditional.
The God who transcends all categories and meets you exactly where you are. You are not lost.
You are being found. And the one who is finding you has been at it for a very long time.
And to the women, the Turkish women, the Muslim women, the women of every culture who have been told that their voice is less important, their mind is less capable, their role is less significant.
I want you to know that Jesus disagrees. Jesus spoke to women as equals. He taught women.
He appeared first to women after his resurrection. He entrusted the most important news in human history.
He is risen to women. In a culture that dismissed the testimony of women, Jesus elevated it.
You are not less than. You are not secondary. You are not a supporting character in someone else’s story.
You are the protagonist of your own. And the God who made you made you on purpose with purpose for a purpose that no culture, no religion, no tradition can define or diminish.
My name is Elif Yilmas. I am 31 years old. I am from Istanbul, Turkey, the city that sits between two continents, two civilizations, two identities.
I grew up in the gap between a secular father and a devout mother, between Europe and Asia, between the modern and the ancient.
And in that gap, I found God. Not the God of my mother’s religion or my father’s rejection.
A God who was bigger than both. A God who had been hidden beneath the surface of my life like a Bzantine mosaic beneath Ottoman plaster.
Always there, always beautiful, waiting to be uncovered. I am an artist. I am a teacher.
I am a daughter who loves her mother. I am a Turkish woman who follows Jesus Christ.
And I am not torn between two worlds anymore. I am whole. For the first time in my life, I am whole.
The mosaics are showing through. The plaster is cracking and the face beneath is the most beautiful face I have ever seen.
Come and see. I want to add one more thing. Last month, I visited the Haga Sophia again.
I stood beneath the dome in the same spot where everything began 6 years ago.
The Islamic calligraphy was still there, golden and magnificent. And beneath it, the mosaics were still there, too.
Faint, persistent, beautiful. I looked up at the face of Christ in the DS’s mosaic.
The same face that had arrested me years ago. The same gentle, penetrating eyes, the same expression of compassion and knowing.
And I smiled because I was not a seeker anymore. I was not standing in that building asking questions.
I was standing there with answers. Not all the answers. I will never have all the answers.
But the answer that matters. The answer that changes everything. The answer is a person.
And his face has been looking at me from behind the plaster for 2,000 years.
Patient, present, waiting for me to look back. I looked back and what I saw was love.
Thank you for watching. Thank you for giving Aliff’s story a place to land. If this testimony resonated with you, I am asking three things.
First, leave a comment. Tell me what part of this story spoke to you most.
Was it the Haga Sophia, the hidden mosaics, the conversation with my mother, the art?
I read every comment, and every comment reminds me that sharing these stories matters.
Second, share this video. Send it to someone who is caught between worlds, someone who is seeking, someone who feels like they do not belong anywhere.
This video is for them. This video says, “The gap is not empty. God is in the gap.”
Third, subscribe. This channel is a gallery of hidden mosaics. Every testimony reveals something that was always there but had been covered over.
Your subscription helps us uncover more. Help us show the world what has been hidden in plain sight.
Until next time, be brave, be creative, be found. My name is Ellif and this is my testimony, Tessurer.
Thank you. God bless you.